So, Stephen and I have started this slightly weird tradition. Granted - it has slipped from tradition status at the moment because we have had various family members, friends etc staying over the last several months and I'm not sure they would really "get" our weird ritual we do every Friday. So while we have guests we kind of pretend Friday is like any other day. See, before I moved to the Lowcountry there were certain activities I wouldn't contemplate doing, and for sure - creatures that I wouldn't even have cause to mention - let alone eat. Not alligators.. I'm not ready to talk about them yet - stop guessing and let me finish.
My mom leaves in a week, and yesterday, another Friday came and went without being acknowledged. Friday is Catfish day. "Catfish?!" You ask. "Aren't they those super ugly things in muddy brown swamps that those crazy, toothless, rednecks catch on Animal Planet?" And I would say "Yes, you are correct" with a very straight face.
You see over the bridge from Hilton Head island, in what is technically Bluffton (even though Bluffton town central is about 10 miles up the road), there is a small road that leads down to some warehouses, and metal sheds. There's a storage unit complex there, an auto body shop, a solar panel company (they're new!) and a cabinet maker. Hold on, we're almost there.
One of the metal sheds has dark tinted glass doors that you can't see into at all, and a green awning that says Kelly's. The address for your smart phone (you may need it because you are going to think you are lost) is 11 Buckingham Plantation Dr, #B, Bluffton, SC 29910.
Stephen called from work one Friday when he had first moved down here and asked if I wanted to meet him for lunch. Honestly? I thought he was joking when I pulled in there. Inside there are acoustic ceiling tiles and very little ambience apart from the huge rectangle bar that takes up most of the space.
And is it packed! With little old white haired golf foursomes down from Sun City, local boys from the body shop, an array of arty types that work for the super cool ad agency that has 200 employees in a another warehouse across the back parking lot and the odd tourist who has wondered in on a recommendation and sits warily looking around them hoping they made the right choice in coming there.
The owner is always around watching over the bar and pulling pints when needed as he chats to the regulars. The waitresses are on a first name basis with pretty much everyone in the place, or you'll be "honey". After a couple of visits they know your usual drink order too.
On Fridays, this crowd knows there is one thing to go to Kelly's for, and that is the all you can eat fried catfish. And boy! It is GOOD! Who knew? All you need to know is that you can have it with tartar or cocktail and fries or slaw, and by 2.30 pm they are SOLD OUT. But don't despair, Kelly's has two other items that they are known for and you wont go wrong. One is their Reuben, which I have personally not tried and the other is their Burger. I am capitalizing Burger because I promise you they are THAT good. If anyone asks me where the best burger in Hilton Head is, I have to send them off the island to Kelly's. Another favorite of the hungry regulars is the Belfast, which is an open-faced sandwich with pulled barbecue pork, coleslaw and topped with melted provolone cheese (I get a stomach ache just thinking about that, but I am assured they are awesome).
So my tradition with Stephen is that I go over to Kelly's and order a pint of Killian's (in the middle of the day! Naughty me!) and we eat fried catfish. The other men in his office can't believe he can get away with taking his wife on a date to Kelly's.. either that or they think he's really cheap. Not sure. Lately (it's bikini season), I've switched to a grilled chicken caesar with dressing on the side. And now of course, the boys are out of school so we may go a few times to meet daddy for lunch, but we'll probably resume our catfish Fridays in September. We would have gone yesterday, but Stephen went to the gym and me and the boys (and Bri Bri - my mom) were invited out on a boat... which turned out to be a mac daddy yacht ... with a crazy cast of characters, but that is a story for another day. I literally met the 1% yesterday and the mad scientist who invented derivatives, the frankenstein that got away. And don't worry they are doing just fine.
Saturday, June 9, 2012
Sunday, June 3, 2012
The Beach? Which Beach?
So, now that we live "at the beach" - we tend to spend a bit more time on it. Last summer when we moved here, we were all - YEAH we live at the beach! Never mind that we were 40 minutes plus parking and walking, sweating and arguing away from it. So let's make that 50 minutes. Oh wait - the Publix stop off to get chicken tenders and fruit salad (and beer... but you aren't allowed that on the beach here so if anyone asks.. you did NOT hear it from me). OK - an hour and a half away from the beach.
The beach was such a novelty and took so long to get on it, that one felt compelled to stay for the whole day, or what was left of it. We loved it! And I have never really considered myself a beach person.. ugh.. the sand blowing in your eyes and getting in your crack and all that. But Carolina beaches are awesome. First of all, we have tides! That may sound like a weird thing to say but not all places have high tide and low tide like we do here. The Mediterranean is just one example (the tide is so negligible as not be noticed). When the tide here in the Lowcountry rolls out it leaves this long awesome expanse of hard packed sand that you can walk on easily, cycle on (!), and usually leaves little tidal gullies and pools perfect for young kids with nervous parents. It is also the perfect type of sand for digging and building or carving sandcastles. When people say they hate walking on the beach, as it is too tiring on their legs and hamstrings, I guess they haven't walked on a Carolina beach at low-tide looking for sand dollars.
We live on Hilton Head Island. When we first moved here, we were out in Bluffton. Way out. We drove around on several occasions with our rental agent Sally (from Hilton Head Long Term Rentals) looking at properties to rent. She was extremely patient with us considering we flip flopped back and forth endlessly. But that's a story for another day. She told us, and she wasn't the only one, that people who live here rarely go to the beach. WHAT?! Sacrilege! And as it turns out... totally untrue.
In her defense, after fighting with the crowds and lack of parking at Coligny Beach, I was close to vowing NEVER to step foot on the beach again. Then someone told us about the Islanders beach, and then the summer crowds all went home. One day back in September or October of last year, I picked up my then 3 year old from his awesome dayschool at First Presbyterian and quickly swung down to Islanders Beach, parked with ease, and spent the next hour or so carving sea turtles in the sand until we had to go and pick up my 7 year old at his school. I'm not sure about you, but there is nothing quite like the look on a three year olds face when you tell them you are taking them to the beach to make sea turtles! And then their face when they look at the finished product! That moment sealed the deal for me on what had, up until that moment, been only a cautiously hopeful move from city living.
The beaches of Hilton Head are in fact one long beach, apart from a break/inlet about halfway down. There are no private beaches, but there are private access points. Knowing where to get on the beach is what makes all the difference.
We finally found an awesome long term rental in SeaPines. The beach is a short car ride or cycle away. And sometimes, just because we can, the boys and I will go down to the beach at 5 or so, after school, and I'll relax and watch them boogie board and tire themselves out while pods of dolphins jump around catching fish just beyond the breakers. And that's when all the locals are out walking their dogs and all the vacationers have gone back to their units to freshen up before their dinner reservations. That's when it really hits you. That you live on vacation!
The beach was such a novelty and took so long to get on it, that one felt compelled to stay for the whole day, or what was left of it. We loved it! And I have never really considered myself a beach person.. ugh.. the sand blowing in your eyes and getting in your crack and all that. But Carolina beaches are awesome. First of all, we have tides! That may sound like a weird thing to say but not all places have high tide and low tide like we do here. The Mediterranean is just one example (the tide is so negligible as not be noticed). When the tide here in the Lowcountry rolls out it leaves this long awesome expanse of hard packed sand that you can walk on easily, cycle on (!), and usually leaves little tidal gullies and pools perfect for young kids with nervous parents. It is also the perfect type of sand for digging and building or carving sandcastles. When people say they hate walking on the beach, as it is too tiring on their legs and hamstrings, I guess they haven't walked on a Carolina beach at low-tide looking for sand dollars.
We live on Hilton Head Island. When we first moved here, we were out in Bluffton. Way out. We drove around on several occasions with our rental agent Sally (from Hilton Head Long Term Rentals) looking at properties to rent. She was extremely patient with us considering we flip flopped back and forth endlessly. But that's a story for another day. She told us, and she wasn't the only one, that people who live here rarely go to the beach. WHAT?! Sacrilege! And as it turns out... totally untrue.
In her defense, after fighting with the crowds and lack of parking at Coligny Beach, I was close to vowing NEVER to step foot on the beach again. Then someone told us about the Islanders beach, and then the summer crowds all went home. One day back in September or October of last year, I picked up my then 3 year old from his awesome dayschool at First Presbyterian and quickly swung down to Islanders Beach, parked with ease, and spent the next hour or so carving sea turtles in the sand until we had to go and pick up my 7 year old at his school. I'm not sure about you, but there is nothing quite like the look on a three year olds face when you tell them you are taking them to the beach to make sea turtles! And then their face when they look at the finished product! That moment sealed the deal for me on what had, up until that moment, been only a cautiously hopeful move from city living.
The beaches of Hilton Head are in fact one long beach, apart from a break/inlet about halfway down. There are no private beaches, but there are private access points. Knowing where to get on the beach is what makes all the difference.
We finally found an awesome long term rental in SeaPines. The beach is a short car ride or cycle away. And sometimes, just because we can, the boys and I will go down to the beach at 5 or so, after school, and I'll relax and watch them boogie board and tire themselves out while pods of dolphins jump around catching fish just beyond the breakers. And that's when all the locals are out walking their dogs and all the vacationers have gone back to their units to freshen up before their dinner reservations. That's when it really hits you. That you live on vacation!
Tuesday, May 29, 2012
a blog? seriously? Where is the Lowcountry?
Sooo, I am starting a blog. Y'all. Seriously. I moved to the Lowcountry one year ago, and during that time, and through all the little quirky moments I have had learning about this slice of the world, I have often thought - man, I should blog about that! The unfortunate thing is that I have long thought blogging to be a completely vain, personal foghorn for the obnoxious, who actually think people care what they think, and have too much time in which to indulge that delusion. I still do. But anyway, that's for discussion between me and my therapist. And the world at large, I suppose!
The Lowcountry, sometimes spelled Low Country, or just lowcountry, is a low lying piece of coastal area in the southeastern US. The geographically, and sometimes culturally, defined area lies loosely between Savannah, Georgia, and up the South Carolina coast toward Charleston. While some say it stretches all the way from Jacksonville (FL) to Jacksonville (NC), I think - having been here a year - there is something extra special about the little stretch along the lower south carolina coast. Which is perfect - since I live there :) or here. Whatever. I can see this blogging thing is going to drive us (me and... you, my mystery reader) a little nuts.
By the way, I don't actually have a therapist. But I guess I'll keep you posted on that situation too.
The Lowcountry, sometimes spelled Low Country, or just lowcountry, is a low lying piece of coastal area in the southeastern US. The geographically, and sometimes culturally, defined area lies loosely between Savannah, Georgia, and up the South Carolina coast toward Charleston. While some say it stretches all the way from Jacksonville (FL) to Jacksonville (NC), I think - having been here a year - there is something extra special about the little stretch along the lower south carolina coast. Which is perfect - since I live there :) or here. Whatever. I can see this blogging thing is going to drive us (me and... you, my mystery reader) a little nuts.
By the way, I don't actually have a therapist. But I guess I'll keep you posted on that situation too.
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